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Tour of Madagascar As told by Roddy Macintyre |
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Posing with one of the locals the Hawick group are from left to right
Ian Dalgliesh, Catherine Steele, Verity Hislop and Piper Roddy MacIntyre
Once again members of the Hawick Pipe Band were on the
move, this time it was Madagascar, that large Island off the east coast of
Africa. Myself (Piper) Ian (Titch) Dalgiesh (Drummer) who
accompanies the afore mentioned piper and two highland dancers, Catherine
Steele and Verity Hislop. We were set to perform at various functions in the
capital city Antananarivo known locally as Tana. The idea of the trip began with an off the cuff remark from the British ambassador Charles Mochan to my cousin
Alistair when both were out for a night on
the tiles in down town Tana. The ambassador
suggested that, as he is Scottish, it would be a nice touch to add a Scottish
flavour to the forthcoming garden party to celebrate the
queens birthday. He
thought a piper would make a pleasant change from the military band which usually
performed at these functions. So there it was, the seeds of an idea which would
see a group of performers from Hawick fly half way round the world to the exotic
Island of Madagascar. This was obviously going to take a lot of organizing but Alistair
accepted the challenge.
Firstly, who would fund the trip? Alistair contacted
Air France and along with the powers that be at the consulate, some arm twisting
was carried out, with them eventually agreeing to sponsor the flights, phase one organized.
Now their thoughts were turned to accommodation, and once again Alistair was on
the 'mooch', his friend Mr George who is also the manager of the local
Hilton Hotel was asked for some help, Mr George wasn't his real name, it was
actually one those unpronounceable Greek names that would get most people into
bother, however George is the only name he uses in Tana. Once again Alistair came up
trumps securing not only rooms in the Hilton for everybody, but also
spending
money for the troops. The trip started with me picking titch up at his house,
then we were off to Edinburgh airport where we met the dancers Catherine and
Verity with their two enormous suitcases before flying to Madagascar via
Paris. Arriving in Tana was something else especially after
previously flying into such superb airports such as Charles de Gaulle, but this
gave us our first flavour of Tana, a city that during the early 1900s was a
thriving city with strong French influences, but is now run down in parts
as was the airport. Thank goodness that Alistair was there to meet us and
take us to our hotel, but we had to endure the arduous half hour journey there
first. The roads looked like they might have been tarred at some point in time,
but now they're just a series of potholes and rubble, but it was worth the
effort, the hotel was a cracker, set in a prime location near the city center
overlooking a large lake. Part of the deal with the Hilton was that we had to
sing for our supper, so for about half an hour each evening we had to perform in
the hotel restaurant , a few tunes followed by a display of highland dancing.
Once again Titch scored as he had a break while the dancers performed, but no
such luck for the piper. As was previously mentioned, the main function of the
trip was to perform at the ambassadors garden party, so off we went with
instructions on how to find our way to the official residence. We arrived at a
building with large gates and assumed that this was the place only to be met by
a couple of armed guards, how wrong can you be, this wasn't the place but we
found it soon after. When we finally arrived at the party we were met by the
ambassador and we were
given our brief on what was required of us, which turned
out to be a cushy number as there was an abundance of food and drink with only a
short performance on the pipes and drums required. Once again the pipers
assistant had a rest while I played for the dancers. The party was filling up
with the usual types of dignitaries, government officials, high ranking military
types surrounded by a ridiculous amount of armed guards, it was like being on
the set of a Hollywood movie. The next trip was to a local orphanage run by an
ex-pat and his wife where we performed for the kids and in return they
entertained us with some local songs and dance. This was one of the highlights
of the tour as the kids really appreciated our efforts to entertain them. The
next day we were on the go again, this time to perform at Alistair's knitwear
factory where the girls stole the show with their dancing, I'm not sure if the
employees knew what to make of the pipes, and yes yet again Titch gets another
easy time of it (sometimes you have to wish you were a drummer) Although it
sounds like it was all work and no play this wasn't the case, we had some great
nights out, one in particular springs to mind which was in a local restaurant
that would not have looked out of place in Paris, in fact the owner was a
Parisian called Madam Fifi, now you cant get more French than that. on the menu
was a dish consisting of "Zebu" which is a type of Ox so I thought I'd
give it a try "when in Rome and all that" well this stuff was the
business almost as good as a piece of Aberdeen
Angus. One
evening we headed off to a bar named after this beast of burden "the Zebu
bar" which was run by a Frenchman who in a previous life was a P.E. teacher
and who in his spare time coaches the local rugby team, he came down to the bar
to listen to the pipes and drums but unfortunately for him he didn't get a
chance to hear the
drums because Titch was bedridden at the time with a right
old dose of the runs, which left me to get on and do all the hard work and the
drinking myself. The final part of our trip was a weekend spent living in log
cabins within a game reserve called Vakona. To get there we loaded up two Land
Rovers and set off on a four hour journey on the worst roads I had ever driven
on, and to make matters worse I had to drive on the wrong side of the road, well
the wrong side for me that is. After negotiating the Land Rover past the
numerous potholes we stopped for some scran, this restaurant was about halfway
between Tana and our destination. Here once again my grasp of the French
Language let me down as I ended up eating a fish dish rather than the chicken
dish I thought I had ordered, nice as it was. Upon arrival at the game
reserve we checked into our rooms which were basically posh log cabins. After
that I decided to do a reconnoiter of the area and this place was the real
McCoy, Lemurs Crocodiles, Snakes and the usual creepy crawlies , this place had
the lot. The next day we went on trip around the reserve where titch nearly
provided lunch for one of the Crocodiles ( well a mere snack at any rate) we
stopped to take some photographs and we didn't notice the croc emerge from the
lagoon only about three meters away from where Titch was posing for his snap.
With lunch in mind after that excitement we set off to a restaurant which was a
large
wooden structure with glazed sides enabling people to look out into the
jungle while having their meal. LOcated in the center of the dining room was an
enormous fireplace which caused the whole place to smell of wood smoke, this
however did not spoil our enjoyment as the food was fabulous "Zebu" on
the menu again tremendous! it was in this restaurant that we celebrated Veritys
birthday, Alistair had secretly organized a cake after having a word with the
chef and this was piped from the kitchen to our table to the tune of happy
birthday, well what other tune would you play and anyway who said the pipes
aren't versatile. This was a great way to end our trip and so we headed back to
Tana, negotiating the potholes and having to put up with some back seat driving
from the girls.
The next day it was time to leave Tana and so we said our goodbyes, and I couldn't help but notice that we were not only laden with suitcases, pipe boxes drum boxes but also all the presents that the girls had purchased at the local market, and so homeward bound.
Hopefully this narrative gives an insight into what our trip was like, it wasn't a typical pipe band trip but an enjoyable one non the less.
By Roddy McIntyre